Champagne, without the noise.

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Pierre Péters

Cuvée de Réserve Blanc de Blancs

Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Côte des Blancs

Chardonnay at its most precise. Chalk-driven minerality, green apple, and a finish that holds long. The benchmark for non-vintage blanc de blancs.

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Billecart-Salmon

Blanc de Blancs 2014

Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne

A vintage that asked for restraint. Billecart obliges. The 2014 blanc de blancs is taut, focused, and nowhere near its peak. Open it in five years.

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Discovered This Month

Discovered This Month

Pierre Gerbais

L’Originale · Pinot Blanc

Celles-sur-Ource · Côte des Bar

The story

The Côte des Bar sits at the southern edge of the appellation, separated from the Montagne de Reims by nearly a hundred kilometres and a very different relationship with the land. Pierre Gerbais farms in Celles-sur-Ource, a village that most visitors to Champagne will never find on an itinerary. That is precisely the point. The family has grown Pinot Blanc here for generations — a variety so rare in the region that most producers abandoned it entirely when Chardonnay proved easier to sell. Gerbais did not. L’Originale is made from ungrafted Pinot Blanc vines planted in 1942, and it is unlike almost anything else in the appellation. No dosage. No apology. A wine that earns its place on any serious table.

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Companion's Notes

Paris, a glass of Deutz, and the beginning of a memorable week

Early in June, Danuska and I spent a week in Paris with close friends. While the city offered countless attractions, I was most excited by the opportunity to explore its Champagne merchants and neighbourhood wine shops.

On our first morning, I found myself drawn to a local Champagne merchant. The shelves were lined with everything from celebrated houses to small independent growers, many of whom are difficult to find elsewhere. What surprised me most was the pricing. I had expected Champagne in Paris to be expensive, yet many bottles were more affordable than those I regularly see back home in the Netherlands.

A glass of Deutz Champagne on a Paris terrace table with the Eiffel Tower lit up behind

A few evenings later, we celebrated our friend Lee's birthday at L'Artisan du Burger. The house Champagne was Deutz Brut Classic. At €14 a glass it wasn't inexpensive, but from the very first sip I knew this trip would be memorable.

Looking back, it wasn't the Eiffel Tower or the Champs-Élysées that defined our week. It was that first glass of Champagne. It reminded me that the best discoveries are rarely planned. They begin with curiosity, a recommendation, or simply walking through the right door.

I only drink Champagne when I’m happy, and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it — unless I’m thirsty.

Lily Bollinger